A bit about me I don’t always mention: I’m a naturalized French citizen. How I earned such an honorific is worthy of a memoir, but let’s just say I swore a blood oath to protect Parisian couture, beauty, and art. Usually I’m a proud Frenchie except for the first week in May when the arrival of Cinco de Mayo turns me into a traitor. Contrary to popular belief, Cinco de Mayo, the Mexican equivalent of the American Fourth of July, marks their independence as a sovereign nation from France, not from Spain. In the spirit of modernity and letting bygones be bygones, what better way to celebrate the things that really matter – freedom, tacos, margaritas – than Cinco de Mayo?
With auspicious timing for the historic holiday, I’ve discovered the perfect spot to celebrate the 1862 Battle of Puebla. Recently opened in the East Village by the owners of Le Souk, a downtown nightlife institution since I can remember, Populares is many restaurants in one. It’s a local cantina, a neighborhood taqueria, and a culinary destination serving up contemporary fare for foodies in search of authentic Mexican flavor profiles.
With decor inspired by the longstanding tradition of vibrant Mexican murals and street art, and a beautifully backlit bar, Populares feels like a quiet retreat from the more raucous watering holes and party spots along Avenue B. With a massive patio in back opening to mark the arrival of Cinco de Mayo, it’s a locale tailor-made for weekly brunch rendez-vous a la Sex in the City and special events like bridal showers, company lunches, and rehearsal dinners. For the people-watchers and street style chroniclers, there’s open-air street-facing seating, an invitation to sip one of Populares’ signature-blended Margaritas or Palomas while planning the weekend.
As all modern Mexican restaurants should, Margaritas are available with topshelf Tequila or smoky Mezcal in Lime, Spicy, Cucumber, Coconut and my fave, Jamaica, made with the ruby-red hibiscus flower. Populares’ mixologist Fernando Lozano, a veteran of Casa Mezcal, has brainstormed a cocktail service using a wide selection of Mexican ingredients in homage to Lower East Side landmarks.
The Avenida B combines Hijole Tequila, Guava, Tamarind, and Grapefruit Topo Chico for a punchy, citrus palate cleanser. The Loisaida mixes Espolon Tequila, Olives, and Celery Tincture for a spicy take on the Bloody Mary.
If looking for a few light bites to accompany a round of drinks, individual tacos are available to mix and match during the daily happy hour. Standard offerings include chicken, carnitas and vegetarian-friendly sauteed mushroom and spicy, fried cauliflower. The guacamole and salsa, perfectly executed, are a given.
For the culinary-minded, the menu of starters and entrees at Populares caters to standard courses or tapas-type dining with adventurous Pan-Latin flavors. Signature tacos include a duck carnitas which proves fancy fowl can be just as hearty and unctuous as pork. Lamb chorizo on tacos and sopes is the foodie crowd-pleaser one hears about from trips to Oaxaca. In a nod to the Spanish influence on Mexican cuisine, Gambas al Ajillo and Paella Croquetas stand out as palate-pleasing panache. Seafood lovers will gravitate to the fish and shrimp tacos, as well as the highly recommended Tuna Tostada. Sashimi-grade chunks of tuna in a salsa macha crema with guacamole atop a crunchy tortilla is fusion cuisine at its best.
Standouts from the mains or larger Plato Fuerte selection include a duck breast in traditional Mole and grilled figs to complement the sweetness, as well as a juicy Mezcal-marinated grilled chicken with more salsa macha – a spicy blend of dried, chiles, nuts, and sesame seeds for an earthy finish. If you plan to keep carbs to a minimum, don’t. The rice and beans are some of the best I’ve had in New York.
While the menu is elevated and chichi, the staff are anything but. With most living in the neighborhood, they keep the community vibe alive. The manager Henry, a computer science major turned self-taught mixologist, keeps the vibe chill. Similar to the famed Lower-East Side Ooh La La Lounge that he managed and put on the NYC nightlife map, this weekend he plans to start the Cinco de Mayo party off right with DJs and special drinks … and keep it going.
